"There are three ways to enjoy Van Hing. First is in it’s menu of British-Chinese favourites done with care: good versions of Singapore noodles; salt and pepper tofu; crispy noodles with duck and pork. The second is to go for the small Vietnamese menu, particularly the exceptional bánh cuốn with wrappers so fine it’s possible to read a book through them, either eaten on their own and dipped in fish sauce, or stuffed with finely minced pork and wood ear mushrooms. The third is to come on a Friday, when those in the know are here for lòng lợn. This demotic Vietnamese sharing food is not for those faint-hearted about offal. It’s Operation on a plate: sliced hearts, liver, intestine stuffed with bitter herbs, with absolutely nothing done to obscure their initial function as organs, retaining crunch and chew where appropriate. Then there’s the mam tom for dipping: A dank, grey pool of fermented shrimp with an intensity only usually found in decaying things, whipped up into an angry froth and gulped between snatches of fresh herbs." - Jonathan Nunn