"A more accessible alternative to the cramped, mythic pizza spot next door: pies and calzones mirror that sibling’s style and are often nearly as exemplary without the long waits. Large calzones can erupt with ricotta and sometimes read as a bit bland, but small calzones—examples include a mushroom-and-garlic vegetarian and a sausage-and-peppers—are perfectly sized for weeknight dinners, thin, elegant, and easy to hold." - Bill Addison