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"Established in 1938 in Chinatown, this long-running basement restaurant—operating for nearly 90 years—has added its first street-level storefront, a sleek, modern space that updates the business while improving accessibility for longtime patrons (many in their 50s and older) who previously had to climb a steep staircase. The expansion, a collaboration between third-generation owner David Leung and architect T.K. Justin Ng, was driven not just by the need for more seating but to make the subterranean dining room easier to access; the original tucked-away location is credited with helping the spot resist changing culinary fashions. Distinct from the nearby similarly named Next Door location, which has different ownership and a slightly different, more touristy menu, the restaurant has weathered challenges including pandemic-era xenophobia and reduced foot traffic, and its investment in a new storefront is framed as a commitment to sustaining Chinatown amid ongoing gentrification." - Emma Orlow