During the Pandemic, Sandwiches Are Taking Over Bay Area Restaurant Menus | Eater SF

"Before March, I knew this Michelin-starred SoMa restaurant for elegant, $200-plus tasting menus inspired by the Pacific Northwest — seaweeds marinated in fishbone vinegar, a cookie made from a duck’s skin and liver, and pine needle sorbet — all served in a serene, rustic‑chic dining room. When the pandemic hit, the team largely pivoted away from in‑person tasting menus, rebranding and refocusing much of their energy on a fried-chicken takeout concept; the chef stresses that the same laser focus and technique that went into small‑plate tasting courses still informs the kitchen’s work. The shift has also changed the chef’s outlook: he is negotiating a standalone takeout lease and says he’d be reluctant to open a Birdsong‑style fine‑dining restaurant again given the risks, believing the future will favor more affordable, thoughtful quick‑service spots." - Luke Tsai