Greenpoint’s Hottest New Restaurant Is the Snail | Eater NY
"Opened in November at 544 Manhattan Avenue in Greenpoint, this new bistro comes from Austin Baker, an alum of the Hogsalt restaurant group in Chicago (known for spots like the burger destination Au Cheval) and, more recently, Saraghina Pizzeria in Brooklyn. What should have been a prime location with spillover from McCarren Park has been a challenge for restaurants over the years; the space at one point housed the restaurant Annicka. The place is walk-ins-only, and the reviewer's experience illustrates the demand: though dinner service doesn't start until 5 p.m., the line at 4:39 p.m. on a recent Saturday was about 30 people and by opening had stretched to Driggs Avenue; the reviewer put a name in at 5:12 p.m., was quoted a wait of about 1.5 hours, received a text when a table opened and was seated by 6:30 p.m. The text system keeps the entry area from congesting, and despite the initial crush the room felt "surprisingly chill and charming" — upbeat, rhythmic music at a conversation-friendly volume, snug but not cramped tables, low but adequate lighting and a wall of windows facing the park; interiors favor simple white walls, hanging plants and light wood, anchored by a horseshoe bar in front of an open kitchen. Service was comfortably paced, making it a good date-night option. The bar lists only a "house martini" (vodka or gin) that can be topped with an octopus Gilda for a $5 upcharge, a selection of wine and beer, and some "spirit-free" options. Food-wise the reviewer calls it a "New York Happy Meal" kind of place — an unchallenging, hits-driven menu that nonetheless executes classics well: snacky plates like a tower of chips layered with Broadbent ham ($13) and the namesake escargot served with classic parsley-garlic butter and a baguette from nearby Nick & Sons ($23); raw crudos including a cracker topped with silky tuna and avocado ($19); the shrimp cocktail ($19); a Caesar ($19) with a generous "blanket of grated Parm" and crispy capers; three pastas including tender, crab-filled cappelletti in orange saffron beurre blanc (seven pieces for $29); a popular cheeseburger; and a steak frites au poivre (eight ounces for $45) whose sauce the reviewer found properly savory and peppery on this visit after previously hearing it skewed too sweet. Desserts riff gently — the "chocosu," a dense, strikingly black chocolate cake topped with tiramisu, is restrained in sweetness and pairs well with a boozy finish (the house espresso martini leans toward a carajillo). The overall takeaway: unchallenging dishes, done well — not necessarily destination-worthy, but the sort of spot the reviewer could see themselves returning to if the crowds move on. For a more relaxed visit the staff advised going on a Wednesday or Sunday night; asking about a later drop-in earned the candid warning, "Three to four hours," from the host (the restaurant closes at 10 p.m.)." - Bettina Makalintal
