"The Tonoian family — mom Gaiane, dad Khachatur and daughters Ani and Lucy — relocated from Siberia, where they ran a food business called Iceberg for 25 years. They reemerged with Berezka in a Reseda strip mall in late 2021. The name translates to English as “birch tree.” Berezka sells imported goods, produce, and everything from eggplant roulade to house-made basturma and walnut-shaped cookies filled with caramel. On Friday and Saturday afternoons, typically by 2 p.m., the family offers “real meat on fire,” grilling proteins over charcoal in back, which they showcase in black bins when ready. They marinate pork ribs and shoulder chunks with paprika, onion pulp, coriander, and parsley and sell by the pound. Chicken lule, made with thigh meat and sold by the skewer, is firm, but juicy, served with a tomato-based sauce and a vibrant salad made with chopped red and white onions, pomegranate arils, and dill. The star of the show is whole fish, flaky branzino that sports crisp, savory skin and benefits further from a lemon squeeze. Berezka also grills filet mignon and beef lule."