"In his latest review, Times critic Pete Walls waxes poetic on the simple, assuming side-street French bistro, a dying breed of unfashionable restaurants with creme brulees and chipped china, he argues. He finds the same touches in chef Harold Moore’s West Village restaurant Bistro Pierre Lapin, which opened last spring. The critic gives it one star for its “rich, creamy, antique cooking.” The butter- and cream-heavy menu is indulgent, with first course offerings like mushrooms in cream on a buttered and toasted pain de mie and another that’s just a ton of baked brie melted with dried figs and walnuts, served with a baguette. Of the mains, Wells writes: He continues that the menu runs overlong, yielding inconsistencies in quality. The black sea bass is dull, he writes, and he suggests cutting a third of the menu out. And whereas he finds charm in the unfussy nature of the food, he does not extend that same grace to the wine list, which he says is about four decades out of fashion. One star." - Kayla Kumari Upadhyaya
