
21

"Bangkok street food–inspired cooking here pulls no punches: it’s spicy, electrifyingly sour, and viscerally vibrant. Every table seems to have an order of the beef tataki — thin slices of angus beef in a sharp chile-lime sauce with toasted rice powder, chopped shallots, and green onions — while Grandma’s fish and rice, a deceptively simple, nostalgic bowl of fried barramundi smashed and tossed with rice and lime-laced fish sauce, is a sleeper hit. The khao soi swaps in bouncy paccheri for noodles for a refreshingly unique fusion take, and the kaeng karee shrimp, made from homemade yellow curry paste, packs big flavor without unnecessary heat (great for anyone avoiding too much chile, even kids). The Atwater Village space is small and casual with bar seating and just a few tables, yet it still feels date-night worthy; full service runs all day whether you’re at the counter, one of four indoor tables, or on the patio. On Mondays there’s an if-you-know-you-know Holy burger with double smashed wagyu patties, melted cheese, wavy pickle chips, and fried Thai basil. Chef Wedchayan “Deau” Arpapornnopparat and partner Tongkamal “Joy” Yuon channel unabashedly bold Thai cooking, and this second location borrows a core menu of curries, noodles, and rice dishes — plus seafood specialties — from the original Downtown spot." - Kat Thompson