D.C.’s Estuary Turns Over a New Leaf Under a Mexican-Born Chef | Eater DC

"Perched on the third floor of Hilton’s Conrad hotel in CityCenterDC, Estuary reflects a devotion to the Chesapeake Bay while showcasing a newly global menu under executive chef Arturo Elias. Born in Tabasco and trained in classical French and Italian techniques, Elias marries diverse flavors without forced fusion — for example, Pennsylvania duck breast from Joe Jurgielewicz & Son is seared and finished in a chocolate and black cherry glaze (he avoids calling it a mole) and served with a French-style parsnip purée. His Chesapeake rockfish nods to both his Mexican roots and nine years cooking in Georgia, featuring a succotash made with a corn broth using kernels and husks, blanched peeled tomatoes, and a bright herb oil. I also encountered a cochinita pibil sandwich built from a family recipe paired with burnt habanero aioli, avocado, and pickled red onion, sides like charred baby corn inspired by elote with lime aioli, Aleppo pepper, and aged cheddar, and desserts such as a crème-brûlée–style banana pudding with cornmeal sable. Elias emphasizes letting local ingredients dictate the menu (shrimp cocktail was removed because fresh regional shrimp aren’t available), showcases Maryland lump crab with a freshly grated-horseradish cocktail sauce, lightens crab cakes with gluten-free panko, and plans a seasonal tasting option at a communal table facing the open kitchen for up to ten guests." - Lulu Chang