
5
"Out of a small window of a rusty pickup camper parked in front of a house in East LA, Javier Ramírez sells chivo blanco — adobo-less goat seasoned with salt — cooked in an underground pit the way they do in Tlacotepec de Benito Juárez, Puebla. After I placed my order, I sipped a bright consomé studded with garbanzos, carrots, and fresh epazote (with a touch of adobo for balance) and ate lean, flavorful goat tacos alongside local gardeners knocking back Modelos; the whole scene felt like a beloved ritual and a perfect weekend morning pit stop." - Bill Esparza