

5
"A vast, clubby Mayfair jungle of a restaurant that trades in spectacle and indulgence, with impressive scale — glowing bars, panelled wood, a crackling central kitchen — and a clientele to match. Drinks can be ludicrous and gimmicky, and small touches (like a tacky sign) can shatter the illusion, yet the food often outperforms expectations: hamachi tiradito in a slurpable passionfruit marinade, an Aymara palmito salad of salty-sweet impact, and well-salted, charred rump steaks. There are misses — bland humitas and under-seasoned yuca fries — and plenty of gloriously trashy items (grubby chicken tequeños, sticky rotisserie pineapple) that reveal the place’s true aim: to provide wealthy diners a glitzy alibi for enjoying unsophisticated pleasures, which for many will be exactly the point." - George Reynolds