"Sahib travels all over northern India to collect recipes — there are four kinds of bone-in goat curry alone, including one from Kashmir and another from Kolkata — which is a good measure of the seriousness of an Indian restaurant. This is one of a handful of Hemant Mathur restaurants in Manhattan. The vegetarian dishes keep pace with the meat-bearing ones, including paneer kali murch in a creamy black pepper sauce, and achari bindi: okra flavored with tart Indian pickles." - Robert Sietsema