"Chef Sriram Aylur’s 20-year-old Westminster stalwart was the first South Indian to gain a Michelin star. It specialises in Southwest coastal cuisine that includes the states of Karnataka and Kerala, and is owned by the neighbouring St James’ Court, part of the Taj group of hotels. It’s a beautifully designed space, with a bar area leading to a dining room decorated with ornate ‘jaali’ screens and splashes of bold, bright watercolours; and a division bell for MPs from nearby Houses Of Parliament. Seafood is a speciality here, and two of the signature dishes include a gentle moilee of halibut and prawns, and subtly spiced baked black cod. Pulao of green jackfruit pieces that taste like artichokes, made substantial with lentil nuggets, is rich with ghee and sunny with saffron. Staff are lovely; and there are freebies thrown in such as papads with pickles, a palate cleanser shot of rasam, and cardamom-flavoured chocolate — so the strict no-tipping policy can feel awkward for diners who want to reward such great-value food and service." - Sejal Sukhadwala
