I Cavallini, the Brooklyn Restaurant From Four Horsemen, Is Exciting | Eater NY
"Opened on a hotly anticipated opening night by the team behind the Four Horsemen, the Italian restaurant's name translates to “little horses,” and the space is anything but small: over 60 seats in a dining room with breathing room and a bigger kitchen that lets the team expand their culinary ambitions. The lineup includes the Four Horsemen executive chef and co-partner Nick Curtola and chef de cuisine Ben Zook; Jojo Colonna leads the bar program and Flo Barth oversees an all-Italian wine list. Reservations (the author snagged a 5 p.m. Resy seat) are competitive and there was a short walk-in line on arrival. Designed by Amy Butchko, the room is warm, bright, and elegant with whitewashed brick, blond wooden tables and chairs, a back bar and shelves full of sculptures and books, a framed photo of the Four Horsemen co-founder Justin Chearno (who died in 2024), a vibrant painting of an artist monkey across from the table, and bathroom murals including a big ol’ bucket of pasta next to a trippy rock band. Food highlights are specific and boldly composed: the nervetti and onion salad ($19) is described as a “beautiful, jiggly, wet pile (complimentary) of sliced and chunked beef tendons and onions, soaked in chive blossom vinegar,” more charcuterie than salad and nonetheless a meaty wonder; the gnocchi sardi ($32) features little Sardinian pasta, plump itty bitty shrimps, and small zolfini beans swimming in an herby buttery broth (so good the reviewer was spooning up the broth and wished they had held onto the focaccia $18 paired with whipped ricotta and roasted cherry tomatoes); a side of chilled cucumbers ($14) is doused in colatura di alici and felt like it belonged in the antipasti section. Desserts include a coffee-soaked tiramisu ($15) — noted as easily shareable, “in ladyfinger terms, it’s three pieces wide and two pieces tall, served on a plate” — and an olive oil cake ($18) improved by marinated strawberries from cult-beloved Harry’s Berries (tip: add some strawberries to the tiramisu). Cocktails are a new offering for the team: the Pomozoni ($19) is an Italian-gin drink made with Sungold tomatoes, Dola Dira (a rhubarb-ish Italian aperitivo), lemon, and a touch of salt and is described as a perfect summer cocktail; the Dolce Amaro Fizz ($21) is an egg-cream–like finish made with Amaro Noveis, coffee liqueur, shaken egg yolk, cream, hazelnut, and prosecco. From the wine list the server recommended the Tiberio Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo 2024 ($18), a rosé-ish wine served slightly chilled that paired well with pastas and seafood. The takeaway: the author spotted members of the team (including LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy) at the bar, heard the Four Horsemen next door was still packed, and concluded the project is “finally happening” — the team takes what they already know works and fleshes it out in a new restaurant brimming with friendly service, a warm atmosphere, and high-quality food and drink, without being gimmicky." - Nadia Chaudhury
