"I finally found lamb döner nirvana at Bereket’s successor, Ankara #3. My heart was thrilled to see not one or two, but four cylinders of meat rotating in the window, as a guy shaved them like a barber with a mean-looking knife. As is conventional, the lamb döner is offered on three kinds of bread — pocket pita, Turkish bread, and a wrap ($13 each), the latter something like a flour tortilla. This time the Turkish bread was an individual round roll, unseeded but still focaccia-like in its crustiness. And the meat was absolutely wonderful, as greasy as you’d like and heavily pungent of hay and loam. The vegetables on top were fresh, though I should have asked for more raw onions. While several versions I’d had earlier had been served with tahini, this one had minted yogurt on the side, and a great oily hot sauce, too." - Robert Sietsema