
5

"After a dozen other places, I finally found lamb döner nirvana at Bereket’s successor, Ankara (the new Ankara #3 opened in March at 183 Houston, near Allen Street). I was thrilled to see four cylinders of meat rotating in the window and a guy shaving them like a barber with a mean-looking knife. The lamb döner is offered on three kinds of bread — pocket pita, a crusty round Turkish roll, or a wrap — each $13; the Turkish roll was unseeded and focaccia-like. The meat was absolutely wonderful: as greasy as you’d want and pungent with notes of hay and loam. The vegetables were fresh (I should have asked for more raw onions), it came with minted yogurt on the side and a great oily hot sauce, and the menu also offers a veal gyro called yaprak in the Uzbeki style that’s worth trying for its highly caramelized meat flavors." - Robert Sietsema