"The legacy of the space now home to Excellent Cuisine — a Southeast Division dim sum hall, loud and bustling on Saturday mornings — is a hard one to live up to; Wong’s King’s status as Chinese food royalty in Portland is well known. But the piping hot, delicately folded dim sum served here is at a caliber that may supersede its predecessor. Wrappers of har gow retain the right spring, teeth ripping through to a core of juicy shrimp; the siu mai is pork-heavy and springy, with an al dente wrapper. The standout dish is the red rice rolls: satisfyingly chewy on the outside, crisp on the inside, with a core of bouncy, flavorful shrimp. Pineapple buns stuffed with hot, lava-like salted egg yolk custard and jiggling mango pudding set in duckling-shaped molds make for a fine finish." - Katherine Chew Hamilton