
4
"Dominating the corner of Spring and Sullivan in Soho, this sfincione-focused spot debuted in 1979; it was founded by Ben and Debbie Aliotta based on recipes from his Sicilian immigrant parents and is now owned by John Notaro and John and Ronald Pasquale. I was initially scared off by the creepy, leering chef statue outside and skeptical of a neon sign claiming “Nominated Best Sicilian Pizza In New York,” but after traipsing inside I was astonished by the unusual slices in its three-tiered glass cases. The Palermo — named for the Sicilian capital — is especially remarkable: a lovely chestnut-brown slice topped with olive-oiled, browned bread crumbs over a coarse puree of onions (if you love onions, this $4.25 slice shines), reflecting the Sicilian practice of using breadcrumbs as a substitute for dried cheeses. The other Sicilian slices are similarly meatless — one tiled with sliced fresh tomatoes and heaped with fluffy sautéed onions, another with broccoli rabe, mushrooms, and zucchini — and their tomato-sauce-and-cheese Sicilian slice is among the city's best, with bright red, pungent sauce, profuse cheese nearly cascading over the sides, and a crust that's super hard on the bottom for a satisfying crunch." - Robert Sietsema