"While various Cantonese standards are served here, it’s the food of the Sichuan and Hubei geographies that is most brilliant. Mapo tofu and its punchy sauce of chilli, black bean and fermented broad beans harbours an explosion of flavour, while dry-fried pig’s intestines have fine texture and deeply porcine flavour — edified, naturally, by a wealth of Sichuan peppercorns and dried chillies." - Jonathan Hatchman