NYC’s Best Old French Bistro Is Le Veau d’Or | Eater NY

"Open since 1937 on the Upper East Side and revived after a five-year hiatus, this is NYC’s oldest French bistro; chefs Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson honor its history with touches like a framed old menu while keeping the vibe lively and anything but stuffy. Unless I’m at the bar, I’m choosing from a prix fixe—$85 for a two-course lunch or $135 for a three-course dinner—with plenty of options. For starters, I go for the pâté en croûte, a fatty pork pâté encased in delicate pastry with very punchy mustard, and the frog’s legs (cuisses de grenouille), like succulent chicken wings sizzling in garlicky, herby butter—order them. The duck magret aux cerises belongs on the table: a pink duck breast with crispy, peppery skin, cherry sauce, and radishes; as a waiter told me, it’s “their version of a burger.” For dessert, the île flottante—delicate, soft meringue in crème anglaise—tastes like the most luscious melted vanilla ice cream. The martini can be made “our way” or “your way,” but the dry gin “our way” with a salty vermouth sidecar makes it the best martini in the city. If I can’t snag a reservation, I walk in around 5 p.m. for one of the five bar seats, where I can order à la carte." - Zoe Becker