"The dwindling St. Marks Place yakitori scene — R.I.P. Yakitori Taisho — of the 1990s in one of several unofficial Japantowns of NYC helped pave the way for a cadre of high-end yakitori omakase spots that include Michelin-starred Torishin and Torien. Kono is another. Here, Torishin veteran, Atsushi Kono coaxes the umami out of nearly every part of his organic Amish chicken from chicken skin to soft bone — over glowing 1650 Fahrenheit binchotan charcoals until it crackles and crisps — and dominates a $165 tasting menu." - Caroline Shin