


3

"Visiting chef Eyal Shani’s Tel Aviv import HaSalon in Hell’s Kitchen, I found quite the party: around 10 p.m. on a Friday the d.j. played a catchy Israeli pop song, servers flooded the aisles clapping and hooting, and people of all ages dressed in their nightclub best jumped up, some onto chairs and tables, to dance. The food displays the chef’s “devotion to technique” — a tender chunk of fire-roasted beef comes with a “delightfully sticky” crust — though at a steep cost (that meat dish costs $79 and a dish of chunks of tomatoes in olive oil is $24)." - Carla Vianna