"Tracing its roots to Puebla, this East Los Angeles operation began when founder Filemon Rios partnered with taquero Manuel “El Güero” Méndez (trained under famed Pueblan taquero Dumas “Don Cuco” Santos) and emphasizes strict technique and regional flavor: hefty yellow corn tortillas are handmade from fresh masa, the trompo is stacked with flavorful boneless pork chuck that is nimbly sliced onto corn tortillas, and another taquero applies the classic Tijuana “bandera” of tomato sauce, chopped white onion, chopped cilantro, and a cover of guacamole. Mendez developed the stand’s set of salsas—salsa de jitomate, guacamole, a spicy salsa roja blending chile puya, chile de árbol and chipotle, a salsa adobada with chipotle for the adobada tacos, plus two verdes (one cooked, one raw serrano)—and the team imports ingredients from Tijuana (even bread for tortas) to reproduce regional specifics; the Rioses run a disciplined six-person system focused on details and quality control, because, as Jonathan Rios says, too much adobo can overpower the dish." - Bill Esparza