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"This rigatoni alla kimchi vodka from Jilli’s in Koreatown is exactly how I want any spicy vodka pasta to taste — and it’s better than versions I’ve had at Italian restaurants. There’s plenty of heat tempered by cream; whenever a bite feels too rich, the brightness of the kimchi cuts through the fat. The dish is generously loaded with bacon, with a shower of Parmesan and chives, and the rigatoni is cooked to an optimal al dente so the sauce envelops each tubular shape. For a true Jilli experience, I like to pair the pasta with a makgeolli flight." - Eater Staff