Raleigh’s Irregardless Celebrates 50 Years | Eater Carolinas

"This community cafe celebrates 50 years in business, having opened in 1975 as the city’s first vegetarian restaurant; it was started by Arthur Gordon when he was 25 and had no prior restaurant experience. Robinson recounts the origin story and family attachment: “Arthur comes from a strong Jewish family, and everyone in their circle says that his grandma first started saying irregardless,” says Robinson, “That’s why the restaurant is named [the restaurant]. As he was working to open, she passed shortly before he could get it open. And in the Jewish faith, whenever someone thinks of you after you pass, you’re one step closer to the pearly gates. So, by naming the restaurant [the restaurant], every time someone said the word out loud, his grandma would be one step closer to the pearly gates.” Robinson also recalls his initial skepticism as a student: “I was an English major,” says Robinson, “But you know, being an English major, driving past the weird restaurant named [the restaurant], I would shake my fist at it. That’s not a word.” Under Gordon the menu evolved beyond strict vegetarianism to accommodate regulars: “His Catholic regulars would come in and ask for seafood on the weekend, so he put seafood on menu,” says Robinson, “Then someone asked if he could do chicken. He hired a chef to run the kitchen and spent all his money on labor to prep vegetables that he sold for eight bucks a plate. He realized the chef could just cut a steak, and he could charge $25 for it. So, no brainer. Arthur was always first and foremost about finding the business where it was, as opposed to trying to preach a message. He thought the market was there for vegetarianism. He didn’t really, he didn’t open it as a political statement.” Gordon sold the business to Robinson in January 2020; Robinson — a longtime Raleigh operator who managed spots like the Pit and Player’s Retreat — says he “didn’t wanna be the guy that messed up your favorite restaurant.” The pandemic forced heavy menu pruning (from roughly 200 items to about 30), which made the menu more seasonal and portable for takeout; Robinson tried to drop the spanakopita but “was met with a revolt,” and he still occasionally rotates in old-school classics like the Morgan Street chicken, seafood paella, and seafood linguine. Motivated in part by a desire to preserve a piece of downtown, Robinson says, “The main thing I’m really trying to do is re-establish [the restaurant] as a neighborhood spot,” and he emphasizes the approachable, family-friendly vibe: “It’s a place for the whole family to come, and it’s actually affordable. And literally, the whole family can come, because we’ve got something for everyone. I think what I want people to know is that we are a great spot to go every Tuesday. It’s not just birthdays and anniversaries. We are a chill little spot. We can be a third place.” An anniversary party is planned for Monday, February 24, with a series of special events scheduled through the year." - Erin Perkins