
7

"At M. Star (also styled "Em Star") on Division Street I found a less bare-bones space with a colorful mural depicting a map of Hong Kong and its environs and a bill of fare far longer than S Wan's — toasts, sandwiches, breakfast specials, bubble tea, baked rice or spaghetti dishes, dim sum, congees, and noodle soups with a choice of nine noodles. I ordered a corned beef-and-egg sandwich ($4) on bread with the crusts excised, which was really quite wonderful, and one of the place's signature cart noodles: broad rice noodles in a stew ($9.25) with a hot dog, fish balls, pickled daikon, and satay beef. The satay beef, spicy and peanutty, added real flavor and heat to the broth and sent me back to the D train with my mouth on fire." - Robert Sietsema