Nobody Asked for Pasta in an Omakase, Until Ryokou Came Swinging | Eater Atlanta

"A hidden gem in Adair Park, this new, casual iteration of omakase is packed with pasta and rare sake pairings, and the experience begins the moment you step through an industrial building’s candlelit black hallway into a cozy, stylish room with dim lights, an exposed-brick wall dotted with ceramic gold-and-white koi, glittery gold placemats, and a warm team behind a 10-seat counter—Gutting already slicing and scorching eel for the first preparation. Midway through, chef Paul Gutting plates a showstopping mushroom capellini with miso and shaved Australian winter black truffles—a couple of rich, delicate mouthfuls that nod to chef-owner Leonard Yu’s early Italian training and Japan’s Itameshi love affair; the woman beside me was brought to tears on the first bite. The two-hour, eight-course omakase ($205) moves through Japan: a “zen garden” opener of grilled eel, horsehair crab, tuna, corn, and scallops; soy-marinated akami zuke tuna nigiri that’s equal parts velvet and salt; refreshing somen in broth with shrimp, clams, and a tiny ice plant that packs a salty punch, the broth diluted with ice flown in from Japan for its mineral content (Yu promises it changes the flavor, though I’d argue Georgia ice might be good enough for us Georgia folk); plus grilled fish and A5 wagyu strip loin. Pacing is punctual without rush, and service on both sides of the counter is flawless, anticipating needs and offering friendly insight. Get the sake pairing: beverage manager TC McNeill matches courses with beautiful junmai daiginjos and koshu—Born “Gold” Muroka Junmai Daiginjo with the opener; Boken “Ringo” Junmai with vibrant green-apple notes for the icy somen; Amabuki “Pink Lady” Gin No Kurenai, made with ancient black rice that pours a gorgeous purple, for the nigiri; and, with a light panna cotta and strawberries, the pièce de résistance, Kanbara “Ancient Treasure” Junmai Genshu Koshu, a 12-year-aged sweet sake layered with dark honey, nuts, figs, and a toasted sesame oil finish so right you could practically pour it over dessert. Even the bathroom wows—heated toilet seat, marble sink, matching black toilet paper, candlelight, and rolled hand towels—and thoughtful touches like quiet chair scoots and preemptive glass clears make this an express, high-level omakase worth seeking out." - Henna Bakshi