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"Sitting on the Lake of Dreams at the Wynn Las Vegas, the cobalt-swaddled room — accented by bubble-like glass orbs and anchored by a striking raw fish display — sets the stage for indulgence. An order of salt-baked loup de mer for the table arrived set aflame tableside inside its salt crust, then carefully filleted and plated with a bright fennel and orange salad; the whole fish was tender and flaky, with a subtle sweetness and near-buttery richness. Its mildness made it an ideal match for the standout side: Brussels sprouts cooked until crisp and tossed with hot chile, sweet pomegranate seeds, lemon juice, and fermented colatura fish sauce — exceptional even for someone who only likes Brussels sprouts well enough. The pairing might have stolen the show, if not for the 30-foot-tall animatronic frog that emerged mid-meal to croon Frank Sinatra’s “New York, New York” from atop the lake." - Janna Karel