RiNo’s Rye Society Arrives With All the Deli Comfort Foods - Eater Denver
"Inspired by his Jewish heritage and family’s longtime Denver roots, fourth-generation Coloradan Jerrod Rosen is opening his modern deli, Rye Society, on Monday. Striving to achieve the signature “organized chaos” of classic New York City delis, the highly anticipated cafe and catering company was expected to debut July 19, but construction delays pushed back the opening. The petite cafe located in RiNo at the corner of Larimer and 31st in the former Hutch & Spoon space seats 15 people, with a small outdoor space on the northern perimeter. Decorated by Rosen’s mother, the space is filled with exposed brick and personal embellishments. Upon entry, guests are greeted by a large-scale, black-and-white photograph of Rosen’s Aunt Selma, with diagrams drawn over the top illustrating the family’s history in Denver dating back to the 1930s. Three painted portraits in golden frames depict famous Jewish men and women: Natalie Portman, Mila Kunis, and Larry David. Where old meets new, Rye Society is a family affair, specializing in gourmet Jewish cuisine, with family recipes — Rosen’s grandma’s matzah ball soup she made until she was 101 — alongside modern updates. Cheeky menu combos include the Gentile, with stacks of bologna and American cheese between a brioche roll. Breakfast egg bowls range from veggie to honey smoked salmon with dill, cracked pepper, and lemon aioli. Some sandwiches, such as the Aunt Blanche, are made with bagels from Rosenberg’s, and include salami, pickles, provolone, eggs, and tarragon mustard. Rye Society’s pickles use a 120-year-old recipe. Looking to other local pros, the eatery will serve OZO Coffee, Purely Elizabeth granola, and croissants from La Belle. Rosen’s aunt Cindy is baking a variety of pastries, including rugelach and babka. The culinary team, led by Ryan Leionen, will prepare its own condiments, from butter to cream cheese, and soups, including the chilled beet borscht and matzah ball. Rosen’s sister, a naturopathic physician, added a healthy flair to colorful salads and grain bowls that are made to order. Rosen’s family history foreshadowed his foray into the culinary world. His great-grandfather Morris Klausner opened Golden Rule Dry Goods in 1922, only seven blocks from Rye Society. Meanwhile, his great-grandmother opened Rosen’s Kosher Cafe in 1925." - Gigi Sukin
