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"Eating Abraham Nuñez’s tamale negro is like watching a movie that exceeds expectations: the beef tongue stuffed inside is rich and tremendously deep with sherry braise shining in each morsel, Cheddar and Gouda add sharp creaminess that forms a holy trinity with the Baja-style crema, and pickled peppers and white onions bring another layer of bright acidity. Nuñez has been taking over Evil Eye’s kitchen on Sundays and Mondays to build hype for an imminent Mission Street opening, and dishes like his shrimp-rolled taquitos and titanic carne asada fries show he’s a sky-bound cook bringing punks and barflies to the clouds." - Lauren Saria