"Charcoal-grilled skewers are the calling card at Uzbek Park Slope restaurant Nargis Bar & Grill. Whether it’s veal liver, lamb leg, chicken heart, or any of the other meaty varieties, Nargis nails the kebab. “Skirt steak bursts with concentrated beefiness. Lamb chuck exhibits a restrained funk, a marked tenderness, and beguiling sweetness. The heat transforms chicken hearts into springy, snappy saltiness, with little sinew or offally tang. And chicken wings stun with their technicality; the gentle cooking renders out all the schmaltzy fats, leaving the skin with a blackened crispness whose texture recalls phyllo and whose complex aromas evoke porcini,” Eater critic Ryan Sutton writes in his review." - Alexandra Ilyashov, Eater Staff
Gary He
