"Chef David Lai is no stranger to local restaurant hounds, loved by local dining obsessives for bucking food trends and simply serving what he thinks is delicious. The French Laundry alum was one of the first chefs cooking non‐Chinese to shop daily at the city’s “wet” markets (fresh food markets). The menu changes weekly, and features whatever’s in season — be it local, from Japan, or from the south of France. It might be Japanese firefly squid one week, and local lobster the next, always cooked simply with a slight French accent. [$$$]" - Janice Leung Hayes