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"Debuted on Wednesday, January 17 in Palo Alto, the new omakase serves Edomae- and “Bay Area-style” sushi that blends pre-refrigeration curing methods with modern, local sensibilities. I note that chef Jiabo Li—formerly of Sushi Hon and Michelin Guide–listed Sato Omakase—relies on aging techniques such as marinating fish in sea kelp and dry-aging, paired with his six-year-aged soy sauce and vinegar rice, with an emphasis on balancing those three elements to create a distinctive presentation. Fish are sourced from Japan and include selections like anago (saltwater conger), akamutsu (blackthroat seaperch, prized and expensive like uni and caviar), and shima-aji; supplements are limited to three items that bring luxe ingredients such as akamutsu and uni to an 18-course menu. Li is also developing personal dishes such as tako yawarakani (soft-braised octopus), for which he massages the octopus for hours before low-temperature cooking with a special sauce learned from his mentor and adapted to his tastes. The program mixes tradition and contemporaneity—wagyu is offered as the restaurant’s “modern approach”—and the beverage program currently emphasizes an extensive sake list curated with sake sommeliers and the Sake Lab (including Bay Area-unique bottles and a nonalcoholic sake), with plans to add wine, Champagne, and nonalcoholic pairings in the future. The dark dining room pairs a dark-stained, salvaged Redwood counter from Bay Area Redwood and custom furniture against dramatic black walls, reflecting the partner’s definition of iki as “refined elegance.”" - Dianne de Guzman