
7
"I’d been wanting to visit this hotshot restaurant on Melrose, opened in 2024 from the team behind the Hundreds, and finally slid up to the bar for a martini and a few snacks. Among a compelling slate of starters, the orange chicken wings stand out for their deviation from the Panda variety — something you might expect at a longtime Chinese American restaurant like Formosa Cafe more than at what feels like a sleek softcore steakhouse. Huge chicken drumsticks and wings arrive in a neat pile, shellacked with orange‑infused sweet-and-sour sauce and pocked by sesame seeds. They’re sticky and hedonistic, just what you want before indulging in a second (or third) martini, and they pair beautifully with a side of fries and the house pickled cauliflower for an impeccable bar trinity." - Eater Staff