
13

"In the 1990s, this diminutive Atwater Village burrito shop had an eat-in counter and a bulletproof partition, and Rage Against the Machine’s Zack de la Rocha and I were regular customers (usually not together). By the time Anthony Bourdain blew up the spot on The Layover in 2012, the inside seating was long gone, the neighborhood had largely gentrified, and it had become beloved by locals for comforting, affordable burritos and a smoky chile de arbol salsa. Burritos are the move — I’ve been going for 30 years and have only ordered a handful of tacos; the breakfast burritos are wildly popular, and I recommend the chilaquiles burrito with plenty of salsa. They serve breakfast all day, but if I’m in a midday mood I go for a steak and bean burrito. A few years ago they switched their potatoes from diced to mashed, so I pivoted my go-to order toward beans (it’s a winning move). Vegetarians do quite well: choose any or all of nopales, spinach, beans, papas, cheese, and avocado. These burritos travel well, and while they’re not flashy or camera-ready — smaller, bordering on austere — you’d be hard pressed to find a more satisfying $6 meal. After three decades and multiple generations of ownership, the founding Reza-Flores family even opened a second outpost." - Ben Mesirow