What’s In That Dessert? Vegetables. | Eater
"Opened in late 2024 and presenting a New England–inspired, goth-y darkwave take on the region, the kitchen is known for two oddball sweets: candied seaweed with black licorice, and a celery ice cream float that employs celery two ways — a celery-root ice cream studded with Luxardo cherries marinated in red wine vinegar and shio koji and drizzled with coffee oil, surrounded by a bright celery soda. Chef and owner Nick Tamburo, who trained at Momofuku and Blanca (where he briefly did only pastry), says, “I’m a fan of desserts being as weird as possible, as long as they taste good,” and views dessert as “not a huge commitment,” an opportunity to do something “creative and a little wacky.” Part of his mission is “to make the food we’re excited about and to not feel beholden to guest expectations,” and he adds a critique that “I think New York specifically, but really the whole country, is a little complacent these days when it comes to food,” noting that he seeks to push past that complacency." - Bettina Makalintal
