Davies and Brook at Claridge’s Gets Five Star Fay Maschler Review | Eater London

"Backed by the pull of Swiss uberchef Daniel Humm and the Make It Nice group, this high-profile opening pairs lavish design with tightly controlled cooking: the refurbished dining room spares no expense, with flattering, chivalrous lighting and art-minded décor, and little extras punctuating a punchy £98pp four-course menu feel deliberately luxurious. Bread rolls and the small complimentary touches are repeatedly singled out as outstanding, and although the kitchen is clearly large, there is admirable restraint on the plate — most notably a signature duck cooked to perfection, its civet sauce described as a lesson in culinary history. The menu also veers beyond austere Northern European fare, with a confidently plated black cod and a velvety chocolate bar with coconut ice cream for pudding that rewards restraint and indulgence alike. It is expensive and theatrical, but many of the dishes and the overall hospitality are judged to justify the ambition." - George Reynolds