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"Chef Wesly Jean Simon recalls communal practices around soup joumou from his upbringing: “In our neighborhood [growing up in Haiti], families would go and trade soup with each other,” says Wesly Jean Simon, and he remembers the exchange concretely: “Somebody would come and drop off a bowl, then I’d go drop off a bowl from my mother to another family member and then we’d all trade soup.” In recent years he has turned that spirit into outreach, giving out free bowls of soup at his restaurants and bringing portions to local hospitals and police precincts as a gesture of appreciation; last year he distributed 900 cups and this year hopes to hit 2,000. He explains the intent behind the effort plainly: “I know the Haitians are going to come anyway and get it,” he says. “But I focus on non-Haitians because it’s a part of Haitian history andI want the world to remember our history.”" - Annie Harrigan