"Located in the historic Chelsea Hotel at 218 West 23rd Street, Café Chelsea debuted last summer as a larger, more modern counterweight to the century-old El Quijote next door. Intended as both a hotel dining room and a full‑blown French bistro, the marble‑clad, light and cheery space was mobbed from the start; getting in was nearly impossible for months and evenings remain loud and often require a reservation, but I recommend going at lunch (11 a.m.–3:30 p.m.) when you can usually find a quiet, secluded table. There are three dining rooms—the deep barroom on the right is the most popular with plush barstools and comfy booths, while the two rooms further back are more chill—and half the customers are tourists or hotel guests while the other half are locals. The lunch menu mixes egg breakfasts and pastries held over from the morning service with lunchtime French fare and raw seafood: a diner-like breakfast (~$24) with thick bacon and non-greasy potatoes; several eggs Benedict options (available in half portions); the Niçoise salad (prefer this to the pallid fruit plate); a frisée salad ($24) with pungent shallot dressing topped with a poached egg and seared lardons; a croque madame with a runny egg; and steak frites “au cheval” (the hanger steak is a bit small). I’d recommend the hamburger ($32) on a heavily seeded bun, which is one of the best in Chelsea. Skip the regular coffee and order an espresso drink; the by-the-glass wine list ($17–$42) favors French reds (a Morgon Beaujolais and a Côtes du Rhône from Franck Balthazar stand out), and there are beers, ciders, and nonalcoholic cocktails (the lavender colada is especially notable). The café has a full liquor license, though you may want to think twice about martinis or bloody marys early in the day. Practical tips: half-size Benedicts let you dine lightly and cheaply; the front is concealed by a tall flowering hedge that provides secluded, umbrellaed seating when the weather is warm; the best seats are at the bar with swiveling stools and prompt bartenders; and a sunlit front-window niche can fit four to six." - Robert Sietsema