
9

"Stylish yet comfortable, this Latin steakhouse in the former Komo space on Randolph Street is a welcome break from stiff, formal steakhouses. Art drives the design, with a ceiling mural above the bar by Raspy Rivera and CoCo Schramel and other pieces throughout; it works for date night or family dinner, the bar suits solo diners — on my visit someone in full White Sox gear didn’t look out of place — and a brighter rear dining room buzzes for groups as a Latin soundtrack sets the mood without overpowering conversation. Gin-and-tonic fans get three versions riffing on Mexico, Galicia, and Argentina, while the tres raíces menu leans into Latin traditions with a coffee–rum blend using Guatemalan cold brew and a tequila-and-yerba mate refresher; spirit-forward options include the tango negro with rye, fernet, and sweet vermouth. Refined takes on steakhouse staples headline the food: the shrimp cocktail and beef tartare are exceptional — among the best I’ve had in recent memory — and the tartare arrives in a tin over ice. Chef Stephen Sandoval, known for a tuna tostada, serves a verdant crab tostada with avocado, dill, and Asian pear pistachio; breads like Hawaiian rolls with house-made butters and focaccia fry bread deserve space. Steaks range from picanha to a dry-aged T-bone with sauces like corn-liqueur au poivre and pequin pepper chimichurri, plus four potato preparations — smashed, mashed, fried, and a potato of the day. Breaking the mold, it delivers a relaxed white-tablecloth experience that doesn’t require a special occasion; my cocktail, appetizer, steak, and side totaled $152 with tip." - Jeffy Mai