
13

"Located on Broadway just north of Union Square, Ole & Steen — a Copenhagen chain founded in 1991 — focuses on artisanal breads and frosted breakfast pastries and has a pair of self-service dining rooms more handsome and comfortable than they need to be. It also has a sideline in sandwiches and full meals, including open-face smørrebrød with lots of smoked and pickled fish and boiled eggs on the usual demonically dense rye bread. More interesting are a series of hot pressed sandwiches on a flatbread much like focaccia that seem inspired by Italian cuisine but feature distinctively Danish fillings. The one that blew me away was the Danish toastie ($9): it arrived piping hot with hash marks from the press, long-braised Brandt beef from Brawley, California (said to be hormone- and antibiotic-free) tucked inside, a white, mildly flavored Danish cheese called esrom seeping out the sides into little molten pools, and sautéed onions to further flavor this rich, beefy sandwich — half a sandwich is probably enough for a meal, but I found myself gobbling the whole thing in record time." - Robert Sietsema