"What do you do about a fried chicken sandwich that’s too hard to pick up? Deconstruct, or grab a knife and fork. I tried both and neither was quite satisfactory — but that didn’t interfere with my extreme enjoyment of this sandwich ($7). Yes, it comes on a small brioche bun, but that bun is piled so high with fried chicken and greenery that it’s more vertical rather than horizontal. A hot sandwich that starts with chicken fried to order finishes with papaya slaw and garlic mayo that adds a creamy tartness — with some pickled purple onions in there, somewhere." - Robert Sietsema