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"Born as a Bowery Market stall, this vintage-themed East Village ramen counter from Rasheeda Purdie draws on Japan’s asa (breakfast) ramen tradition with NYC twists, now in a tiny, efficient storefront with up to six stools facing the kitchen and 45-minute seatings. Seats are available by reservation only with pre-ordering and pre-payment, but the inventive flavors are worth setting a calendar alert. Don’t skip the lox ramen ($27): dill and pickled red onion brighten a nori-infused broth, cream cheese foam adds creaminess without heaviness, and lox hangs on the edge of the bowl so you can break off bites to keep it oily and cured or let pieces fall into the broth for a cooked texture; an added egg (+$3) is gilding the lily thanks to fried capers and crispy shallots. The bacon, egg, and cheese ramen ($28) doesn’t evoke its inspiration as much as the lox bowl, but thick slabs of bacon and the clear flavor of the lard-shoyu broth make it worthwhile, and the egg feels essential (fried or soy-marinated). Much of the menu features meat, but the egg-drop soup with everything crunch can be made vegetarian if you specify when you reserve; since this bowl has no other toppings, add chile oil for $1 to keep bites interesting. With reservations limited to up to two, it’s ideal for solo diners, and even if you can’t land a reservation there’s a walk-up window for to-go cups of shoyu broth and breakfast bao; Purdie also offers cups of broth as a parting treat at the end of meals." - Bettina Makalintal