The Che Fico Team Goes Fine Dining with San Francisco Waterfront Restaurant Via Aurelia | Eater SF

"A fine-dining Tuscan showcase from the Che Fico team, this Mission Rock restaurant leans refined and elegant rather than abrasive, dressed in soft yellows, blues, and greens and set against views of China Basin Park, the Bay, and Oracle Park. Chef David Nayfeld and partner Matt Brewer explore both classics and lesser-known regional dishes: bistecca alla Fiorentina rendered as an American wagyu porterhouse and panzanella; hearty pastas like pappardelle with wild boar ragù and pici all’aglione built on a seven-hour heirloom tomato sauce; and a seasonal sformato di funghi with a chanterelle custard veiled in pecorino Toscano, Brentwood corn soup, and a rim of Parmigiano foam—a monochromatic “moment of exploration” that still prioritizes deliciousness. From the coastline influence come line-caught black cod with braised leeks and potatoes and raw plates inspired by colatura di alici, including tatara di tonno made from chopped dry-aged bluefin tuna belly seasoned with Tuscan tamari, finished with trout roe and shaved cuore di tonno. The menu shifts with the seasons—game like duck and wild boar paired with fruit in the fall, more seafood in winter, and spring’s suckling pig and vegetables. Alongside à la carte, a five- to seven-course tasting runs $155 with optional pairings, supported by a 650-selection wine list heavy on vintage Tuscany and Italy with additions from France and California under wine director Jason Alexander. Designed with Jon de la Cruz (DLC-ID) and curated by Marisa Gray (Tableau Gray)—including a Windy Chien knot piece evoking Florence’s skyline and custom ceramic lamps and plateware—it reads as “refined cuisine, but not pretentious,” the sort of place for weekly dinners as well as anniversaries, with an all-weather patio and OpenTable reservations." - Dianne de Guzman