"While my Jiangxi noodle salad was quite delicious, with its seafood-flavored chile sauce, my heart belongs to a good Hainan chicken rice plate — especially if all the separate components are done well. To wit, the chicken was delicately poached, retaining a nice texture and not verging into the overdone territory. The rice was a lovely golden hue, imbued with the taste of the chicken broth, but without any slick oiliness. And the ginger dipping sauce was done in my favorite style, which is to say slightly too salty, ideal for bringing some depth to the combination of rice and poached chicken. It’s just a pure comfort dish, even if it’s not one I grew up with, in a soothing combo of rice, chicken, and sauce that makes rainy weather like this feel less dreary." - Paolo Bicchieri
