"Bethesda Magazine dining columnist David Hagedorn evaluates the new Peruvian eatery that local restaurateur Emma Perez planted in Rockville’s Talbott Center last August. Elevated design accents include burnt-orange walls, colorful murals of balcony scenes in Peru’s capital city, and 20 elaborate cast-iron chandeliers. The bar makes a solid version of Peru’s signature cocktail, the pisco sour, and the restaurant’s ceviche with cubed tilapia and hot rocoto peppers is also on point. One 'showstopper' is the sampler of four causas, featuring stacks of whipped potatoes topped with a poached shrimp and three mayonnaise-y dollops of crab, tuna and chicken salad. Hagedorn says his favorite starter delivers comfort from cold temperatures: a creamy, soufflé-like corn pudding spiked with sautéed diced sirloin steak, hard-boiled eggs and raisins. He’s also a fan of the alfajores, small anise-scented cookies filled with creamy dulce de leche. He’s not blown away by some entrees, however, like a bouillabaisse-style seafood soup with rubbery calamari. Hagedorn preferred rainbow trout seasoned with cumin and sprinkled with crisp garlic chips." - Tierney Plumb