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"These days, Malaysian restaurants are few and far between, and Belacan — referring to a fermented shrimp paste — is a longtime holdout. Many classic dishes constitute the best versions in town, including assam laksa, an unspeakably rich soup that drops shredded fish, noodles, and chiles in a soup thickened with belacan, pineapple, and a touch of palm sugar syrup." - Erika Adams
