Gus & Marty’s Is a Standout Greek Restaurant Off McCarren Park | Eater NY

"Made-to-order pita arrives still puffed from the oven and might ruin all other pita for me; I swipe it through taramasalata crowned with trout caviar that evokes the Jewish deli whitefish spread my dad goes nuts over. Delicate fluke crudo, cured with ouzo and finished with fennel pollen, takes beautifully to those anisette notes and a lemon caper vinaigrette, and the horiatiki comes with thick slabs of briny feta and, somehow in November, deeply red, juicy tomatoes. The wine list leans Greek natural and is rife with gems, like a Brousko from the Ionian Islands—inky yet medium-bodied, tasting of forest herbs and blackberry—that pairs as well with the slow-cooked lamb shoulder as with the lemon chicken. In summer, the front wall of windows opens to waft McCarren Park’s energy indoors; in colder months, the high-ceilinged, cozy-lit back dining room is where I want to tuck into moussaka a la eggplant parm with Vlahotiri cheese. I’d throw a buyout party here just as quickly as I’d stop in for date night, and I love that they sell a proprietary single-estate olive oil—cold-pressed kalamatas from the cofounder’s family groves just outside Athens—even if I’m still wishing they could package that perfect pita to take home." - Nat Belkov