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"Opened in early November, this Nomad outpost of the London original from Ryan Chetiyawardana (Mr. Lyan) showcases cutting-edge, lablike techniques and classic cocktails turned on their head in a glowing, cozy basement room. Tucked a bit awkwardly in the basement of the Hotel Park Ave — cue an “is this the right door?” moment — the space wins me over with table lamps at just the right level, lounge-style seats, and nooks and corners that make each table feel private. I’m here for the drinks: the Coriander Seed Gimlet, a classic at the London location, feels like a magic trick — there’s no lime, just coriander seeds hacked and amplified with acid powders to unleash their citrusy flavor — and the clarified C.R.E.A.M. Margarita, garnished with a pickled chile, drinks more peppery than spicy, with an infusion of passionfruit that gives it a lush, layered, tropical undercurrent. The food menu sticks to standard bar fare (a burger, tater tots, oysters), but a plate of crunchy crudité with za’atar-topped babaganoush pairs best with the clarified and creamy cocktails. For a dessert drink, I go for the Koji Hardshake, a lightly savory mix of whiskey, miso, koji, and cream, garnished with a toasty jumbo marshmallow. It’s not a bar for everyone, but even without deep cocktail nerdery, I appreciate the creative drinks, the accessible menu, and thoughtful New York nods like D.S. & Durga soap in the bathrooms." - Mary Anne Porto