"Jeff Ruby gives Radio Anago zero stars and calls it a “half-assed afterimage of its [Hogsalt Hospitality] predecessors.” Steamed pork buns are “tragically undercooked, lending the meat the springy texture of a lukewarm Sausage McMuffin” while wagyu tartare is a “gloppy, oversweet” mess. The nigiri are “forgettable slabs” of fish “slathered with so much potent sesame oil that even the boldest-tasting fish drown[s] beneath it.” The worst dish, though, is the “disturbing” Houji fried chicken. It arrives “overbattered, burnt” and resembling “something between a trio of burgers left overnight on a grill and decomposing limbs in a serial killer’s basement.” The skin has an “off-putting tang and a rancid flavor” and is covered with gold flakes for a “top note of bullshit.” All in all, it’s the “worst new dish of the year. Maybe the decade.” And worse yet, the “food isn’t memorable--except when it’s memorably terrible.”" - Jeffy Mai
