"Simon Rogan’s Marylebone restaurant achieves that rare thing: a reasonably priced lunchtime menu (four courses for £35, from Tuesday to Saturday) with all the bells and whistles that come with the full-blown tasting menu. They’re still very much in evidence in a thoughtful procession of dishes like beetroot and eel, baby gem with truffle and shimeji, and Cornish cod with tomato and smoked roe." - Emma Hughes
